Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
